Grand tour of Montenegro and a taste of Albania

We'll begin exploring the colourful capital of Albania in earnest today with a guided tour accompanied by an expert local guide who'll bring the city to life with fun historical facts and stories of daily life in Albania.

 The city has been rebuilt many times since it was first inhabited in prehistoric times - from earthquakes to invasions, Tirana has seen it all. Having shaken off the drab legacy of communist rule, Tirana's centre is a cacophony of colour with buildings painted in primary colours, yet evidence of its troubled history remains in the widened boulevards and squares. The most famous is Skanderbeg Square, the capital's main plaza home to many important sites, such as the Palace of Culture, the National Opera, the National Library, the City Hall and many of the Government buildings.

 We'll also visit the Bunk House Museum*, housed in an anti-atomic bomb bunker. Today, it's a museum dedicated to preserving the collective memories of that regime – from daily life to the difficulties and even the horrors of the country's political climate at the time. We’ll also visit the Bunk House Art Museum – or Bunk'Art – an art gallery that features contemporary art.

 We'll then head to the edge of the city, climbing the hills that surround Tirana by coach until we reach the cable car station. The fifteen-minute cable car on the Dajti Ekspres is the longest cable car ride in the Balkans. It offers expansive views of the city, farmland and forest as you travel up to Datju Mountain balcony at a height of 1613 metres above sea level. At the top, we'll dine at a restaurant digging into some traditional Albanian dishes while appreciating the natural grandeur of the valleys and mountains.

* Please note that the Bunk House Museum and Gallery are only accessible by stairs - there is no lift on site.

Travelling north to Krujë, situated at the foot of Mount Krujë and surrounded by verdant valleys that stretch towards the Albanian coastline. This hilltop fortress town holds a special place in the heart of most Albanians as the birthplace of their beloved leader, who used his military prowess to expel the Ottomans from Albania and reclaim his father's land. (You'll have already seen his statue standing proudly in Skanderbeg Square.)

Perched high on a hill is the medieval castle, which acted as a defence against the encroaching forces and now houses a museum centred around Skanderbeg, and the town. Views from the castle span from Mount Tomori in the south to Ulcinj in the north, with incredible views of the Adriatic coastline. It's so enjoyable to explore the town’s maze of cobbled streets, alleyways and steps that crisscross along the hilltop.

We’ll visit the Ethnographic Museum with our local guide. Housed in a well-preserved merchant house with traditional rooms, its exhibitions reveal the intricacies of Albanian cultural heritage through a priceless collection of filigree, textiles and other artefacts.

Later, there's time to explore independently. We recommend you make your way through the cobbled streets of the old town to the local bazaar, which dates back over 400 years. Restored in the '60s in its original Ottoman style, the stalls sell everything from handmade wooden hats, jackets and carpets to copper coffee pots and ceramic dishes. It's the ideal place to find a souvenir of your time in Albania.

After a fascinating day, we’ll return to our hotel.  
 

We'll venture south of Tirana to visit Berat - this will be a real highlight of our time in Albania. Nestled in a rugged mountain setting, clouds often swirl around the tops of the city's minarets.

This UNESCO-listed city climbs up the steep valley slopes and, at its top is an impressive, fortified town that offers a bird's eye view of the city below. While the history of the castle stretches all the way back to the 4th century, the current structure features Byzantine and Ottoman architectural styles. Unlike most ancient castles, Berat's is not just a relic. It's a living, breathing part of the city - the buildings within the castle walls are occupied by residents or have been transformed into eateries and shops.

Below the fortified town, at the bottom of the hill are rows of whitewashed Ottoman houses climbing the hill to the castle, earning Berat the title of 'town of a thousand windows' as they look watchfully across Gorica Bridge and the valley below.

To appreciate the city in all its glory, you have to see it from the top, and the bottom - and that's just what we'll do on today's guided tour. Accompanied by an expert local guide, we'll explore the site's narrow cobbled streets. We'll also have the chance to visit the Iconographic Museum and Church to see its well-preserved icons, dating from the 14th century onwards, painted by Onufri (a 16th-century Albanian painter) and his descendants.

Stopping for free time to enjoy lunch, we’ll then explore the town below with our guide. 

Leaving Berat, we'll head to one of the country's most prestigious wineries. Only oenophiles will know that Albania has been producing wine for centuries. Despite its current lack of fame, it's one of the oldest wine-producing regions in the world - it has exactly the right climate for growing grapes. And, when wine production was banned for commercial purposes under communist rule, this family-owned estate kept the skills and traditions alive through generations, producing wine for themselves instead of selling it.

We'll enjoy a tour of this historic winery, learning some of the secrets to Albanian winemaking that have been passed down through the generations before stopping to taste their wines, accompanied by a selection of cheeses, charcuterie, bread and olives - including their own olive oil. 

Leaving our hotel this morning, we’ll pass through the fertile, low-lying countryside to, Shkodër. Founded in the 4th century by the Illyrians, it's one of the most ancient cities in the Balkans.  

As the heart of Roman Catholicism in Albania and a symbol of the Gheg cultural region, Shkodër embodies a unique blend of history, religion, and culture, where churches and mosques stand side-by-side.

This charming city is ideal to explore on a guided tour, with most attractions conveniently situated around its centre, including the pedestrianised Kole Idromeno. St. Stephen’s Cathedral, which astonishingly served as a sports hall during Albania's Communist era, stands alongside the striking Ebu Bekr mosque, nestled just behind the flower-adorned monument to Mother Teresa, a cherished figure in Albanian hearts.

Standing sentinel over the city is Shkodër's crown jewel, Rozafa Castle. The legend tells of three brothers who built this fortress and in order for it to stand, one of the brothers sacrificed his wife, burying her within the walls. This haunting tale is etched into the remaining walls of the ruins, inviting you to discover its legacy. As you explore the ancient stone walls, staircases, and archways, the wild grass and foliage surrounding the structures evoke the feeling of stumbling upon a long-lost treasure. 

Continuing on to Montenegro, our next stop is Stari Bar. With a long history of invasions, this fortified town lies in overgrown ruins on the shrubby foothills of Mount Rumija.  

Once ruled by the Venetians, Serbians and finally Ottomans, it was reclaimed by Montenegro in 1878 after the locals bombed the aqueduct into the town and cut off the water supply. Less than a century later, a powerful earthquake devastated the aqueduct again, leading locals to abandon the town and establish New Bar near the water.

 As we ascend the crumbling hillside fortress, you can still see the echoes of its former glory. It was an impressive cultural centre, adorned with dedications to deities, grand buildings for the nobility as well as dwellings for the common people. At its zenith, you'll be rewarded with enchanting mountain and countryside views a reminder of the beauty that surrounds us. (For those who prefer a gentler journey, delightful cafes line the cobblestoned ascent.)

After time to explore, we’ll head to Petrovac and check into our hotel for the next six nights. 

We'll take a short drive this morning to Budva, Montenegro's most popular coastal town. Budva is a testament to nature's artistry, it follows the gentle curve of the coast, surrounded by lush, tree-covered mountains and the Adriatic Sea. Here, gleaming white fishing boats, elegant sailboats, and luxurious yachts create a vibrant tapestry along the walkways and jetties.

Just behind the harbour sits the old town - which dates all the way back to the 5th century B.C. - encased by 15th-century walls. As the population grew, the town spilt out along the shoreline in both directions but here in the old town, it's like time stood still with locals still living in the medieval stone buildings. In small groups, accompanied by an expert local guide, we'll weave through the narrow streets to discover its history, and hear more about life as a Montenegrin then and today. 

After our guided walking tour, there’ll be plenty of time to take a leisurely lunch in one of Budva’s restaurants or people-watch from a pavement cafe before returning to our hotel where you can enjoy the rest of the afternoon at leisure.

The whole day is yours to spend at leisure in Petrovac.

Consider a stroll along the beach promenade, where you can soak in the splendour of the photogenic bay and the small Venetian fortress built to guard against pirates! Hop aboard a boat and venture to the islets of Katič and Sveta Neđelja and visit the church that, according to legend was built a Greek sailor that was sought refuge from a shipwreck on the island. Or perhaps enjoy the vibrant Montenegrin cafe culture. Indulge in a catch-of-the-day lunch, perfectly paired with a refreshing Nikšićko beer or a glass of local wine from one of the charming waterfront restaurants. 

Today, we'll set our sights on the enchanting old royal capital of Montenegro, Cetinje - a place rich in history and cultural significance- which has retained a village-like charm amidst the stunning backdrop of rocky mountains and lush greenery. Recognized as the first official capital after Montenegro gained its independence in 1878, Cetinje continues to be a hub of Montenegro's culture and heritage. Stories echo through its streets, which are home to some of the country's most important sites, like the charming Blue Palace, once the heart of the Montenegrin royal family from 1867 to 1926 and now serving as the President’s residence.

Here we'll enjoy a tour of the russet-red Royal Palace of King Nikola, transformed into a museum where the Crown Jewels of Montenegro gleam with history. Here, we will delve into its exhibitions of weaponry, clothing, art, and everyday items that tell the tale of the Montenegrin identity.

We'll then enjoy free time to wander neatly lined Main Street, admiring the pastel-coloured houses that add a dash of whimsy to this grand narrative. You may choose to see the stoic stone complex of St Peter’s Monastery or visiting the four museums that form the National Museum of Montenegro.

After our time in Cetinje ends, we’ll enjoy a celebration of local heritage and cuisine with a tasting of local mountain delicacies - smoked meats and cheeses with delicious priganice – incredibly moreish doughnuts served with honey, which locals traditionally offer to house guests. 

This morning, we depart for Lake Skadar, the vast body of water that unites Montenegro and Albania. After time to savour a lakeside lunch in a charming village, we'll split into smaller boats for a relaxing cruise. If you’re lucky you may spot a pod of passing pelicans or one of the other 260 bird species that thrive in this pristine freshwater haven.

With a glass of traditional fiery grappa in hand, we'll end our tour of magnificent Montenegro, surrounded by the breathtaking beauty of Lake Skadar National Park, where tree-covered karst mountains are mirrored in the tranquil glassy waters. 

Early this afternoon, we'll head inland to the Šipčanik wine cellar which, hidden underneath a vast vineyard at a depth of 30 metres, is one of the most unusual wine cellars in the world.

When it comes to European wines, Montenegro wines are often overlooked, but they shouldn't be, and today we'll prove it with a visit to one of the country's wine producers.

What was once a secret underground military aircraft hangar, operated by the Yugoslav People’s Army, is now a wine cellar with neatly stacked large wooden barrels storing around two million litres of wine- it's hard to believe it until you see it for yourself! After a tour of the winery, we'll enjoy an aperitif before sitting down for a private lunch. Each course is paired with wine produced by the vineyard and presented by their knowledgeable sommelier. 

Today, you have another day completely to yourselves – so what will it be: exploration or relaxation? The choice is yours.

Montenegro's Bay of Kotor is often referred to as Europe's most southerly fjord - and it certainly looks like one with towering mountain peaks and rocky coastlines disappearing into its clear waters. Of course, it's not actually a fjord, but rather a ria – a submerged river valley made up of four connected bays - making a butterfly shape which stretches inland from the coast. The shores of this picture-perfect bay, which is a protected UNESCO World Heritage site, are dotted with sleepy fishing villages and charming old towns, and Kotor - its namesake - makes an ideal first stop.  

Located at the southern end of the bay, Kotor's UNESCO World Heritage-listed medieval old town is surrounded by five kilometres of city walls - the northern edge even has a moat for good measure. It's impressively well-protected.  

Inside is a jumble of narrow cobbled alleyways that seem almost designed for getting lost in. As you explore, you'll notice Roman influences, with Romanesque churches, including Kotor Cathedral and its imposing twin towers, as well as evidence of four centuries of Venetian rule, including a Venetian fortification system – featuring stone-carved ‘Lions of Venice’ – to defend the city from the sea.

After a tour of Kotor Town this morning, you'll have the opportunity to enjoy panoramic views of the beautiful, UNESCO-listed Bay of Kotor. We'll ascend 1300 metres up by cable car to one of Montenegro's most famous mountains, the Lovćen, with views of the bay below.    

At the top, we'll be treated to a bird's eye view of the jewel-like bay as we stop for a light lunch and a glass of wine in the restaurant at the top before descending and continuing on to Perast.  

Perast is a mini-Venice with Italian-style palazzos and churches - many argue it's the prettiest town in the bay, but we'll let you be the judge of that! Here, traditional stone buildings rise gracefully up the lush hillside, while a stunning array of churches and palaces lines the waterfront, with the striking spire of Saint Nikola’s commanding attention.

Perast is famous for its man-made island, crowned by Our Lady of the Rocks, an attractive, blue-domed church, which we'll visit by boat. According to legend, this island was crafted by local sailors who, after discovering an icon of the Madonna on a rock, celebrated their safe returns by casting stones into the lake, ultimately creating this sacred place to honour her. If you reach behind the altar, you can connect with what’s believed to be the original rock! The church and museum, house treasures generously gifted by locals, including exquisite paintings by Tripo Kokolja, a 17th-century Baroque artist hailing from Perast, and an astonishing tapestry embroidered by Jacinta Kunić-Mijović, who is said to have woven her own hair into the lavish threads!