Patagonia: Argentina, Chile & the End of the World

After a night of travel, we know that no two explorers arrive in quite the same frame of mind. Some are ready to hit the ground running; others are ready to hit the pillow. Happily, today belongs to you to spend exactly as you see fit.

Once we’ve checked into our hotel, the rest of the day is at leisure. You could spend it getting acquainted with the hotel or getting acquainted with one of South America’s most captivating cities. Recoleta, the neighbourhood on our doorstep, is built for wandering, with tree-lined streets, Parisian-style townhouses, grand former palaces and boutiques well worth a browse.

Close by is La Recoleta Cemetery, one of the city’s most famous landmarks. Built in the years following Argentina’s War of Independence, it became the final resting place of the country’s elite, who filled it with elaborate mausoleums, statues and crypts. Among them is the tomb of Eva “Evita” Péron – though it’s the sheer scale and artistry of the place that tends to linger (this is no ordinary cemetery, as you’ll quickly see).

Today, we begin to understand Buenos Aires properly – and there’s no better way than to see its many sides in a single, well-planned sweep.

After breakfast, we set out for a full-day tour, starting in Recoleta – a neighbourhood that feels more like Paris than South America. Grand, French-inspired façades line the streets here, lending the area a distinctly European air.

From here, we continue to Palermo, the city’s largest neighbourhood, where the mood shifts entirely. Wide green spaces, rose gardens and shaded walkways create a sense of calm, while pockets of cafés, boutiques and creative studios – particularly around Plaza Serrano – give it a quietly modern edge.

Next, we arrive at Plaza de Mayo, where much of Argentina’s history has unfolded. The square is framed by grand colonial buildings, including the unmistakable pink façade of the presidential palace – still the backdrop to political life.

Then we make our way to La Boca. Set along the old docks, this neighbourhood is instantly recognisable for its brightly painted buildings and artistic spirit, shaped by the Italian immigrants who settled here in the late 19th century. Their influence still runs through the area – from its architecture to its atmosphere – with colour and creativity at every turn.

This evening, we come together again for dinner, followed by a traditional tango show. It’s an art form born in Buenos Aires’ port districts, and still one of the most expressive ways to understand the city – a little dramatic, undeniably passionate, and best seen up close. 

Leaving the city behind after breakfast, we head out into the Pampas – the vast open plain that stretches west of Buenos Aires and have long been at the heart of Argentina’s rural life.

Our destination is Estancia Santa Susana, a traditional ranch originally founded by Irish settlers and still very much a working estate today, spanning nearly 3,000 acres. The main house has been carefully preserved, offering a glimpse into life here in the late 19th century – when the Pampas were shaped by cattle farming, horsemanship and a fiercely independent way of life.  

Out on the grounds, we'll see this heritage brought to life as gauchos demonstrate their remarkable riding skills. Horses are central to life here and watching the ease and precision with which they’re handled is part of the experience (and a reminder that there is no stage performance – these are working traditions).

Lunch is taken on the ranch, with Argentine beef grilled over an open flame in true asado style. As you dine, local musicians and dancers bring another layer to the experience – unpolished, authentic, and unmistakably Argentine. 

This morning, fly south from Buenos Aires to Ushuaia – often described as the “end of the world”, and with good reason.

Set between the snow-capped mountains and the waters of the Beagle Channel, it’s the southernmost city on Earth, located on the Tierra del Fuego archipelago with Chile just across the water. It’s a place that feels remote in the truest sense – dramatic, slightly wild, and entirely unforgettable.

After settling into our hotel, we head back out this afternoon for a cruise along the Beagle Channel. Setting off from Ushuaia’s harbour, we follow a route once chartered by explorers, passing through a landscape of rugged islands, calm islets and distant Andean peaks.

We’ll pause at a small island for a short walk and the chance to take in the view back towards Ushuaia – mountains rising steeply at its back, the channel stretching out ahead.

Back on board, we continue along the channel, where colonies of sea lions bask on rocky outcrops, and seabirds circle overhead. The route also takes us past the region's iconic lighthouse – an isolated beacon that has become synonymous with this far-flung corner of the world.

Throughout the journey, the sense of scale remains constant: wide-open skies, open water, and a landscape that feels almost untouched.

We return to Ushuaia in the early evening, with the rest of the night at leisure. 

Today, we step further into Patagonia’s landscapes – beginning with one of the region’s most unusual journeys.

After breakfast, we travel just outside Ushuaia to board the End of the World Train, a narrow-gauge railway that retraces part of the original line built in the early 20th century. Its purpose back then was far less romantic, transporting prisoners from the former penal colony that once operated here. Today, it offers an immersive way to experience the landscape.

As the train sets off, it moves slowly through the forests of Lenga and Coihue, passing rivers, peat bogs and stretches of wilderness shaped by isolation and weather. There’s time to take it all in – the steady rhythm of the train contrasting with the stillness beyond the windows.

We’ll pause at scenic points along the route, including a waterfall, where you can step out briefly to take a closer look (and snap a few photos). On board, the commentary provides context for your journey, tracing the railway’s origins and the development of Ushuaia.

At the end of the line, we arrive within Tierra del Fuego National Park, where the exploration continues by road. The park’s landscape constantly shifts: glacial valleys give way to dense woodlands, then to stretches of coastline along the Beagle Channel. We’ll make several stops along the way for short walks to viewpoints, including Lapataia Bay.

Our local guide shares insight into the region's geology, wildlife and the indigenous Yamana people, whose deep connection to this land long predates modern history.

One of our journey’s highlights comes at the end of the Pan-American Highway. Stretching from Alaska through the Americas, it reaches its southernmost accessible point here. There’s time to walk along the shoreline and enjoy the moment before we head back to Ushuaia in the afternoon.

There will be a break during the day, with time to enjoy lunch at leisure. 

Leaving Ushuaia behind this morning, we fly further into Patagonia, arriving in El Calafate – a small town set on the shores of Lake Argentino, crown jewel of Los Glaciares National Park, known for its vast horizons and striking blue waters.

On arrival, we transfer to the hotel, just a short drive from the airport. After check-in, the rest of the day is yours to ease into the slower pace of Patagonia.

El Calafate is compact but characterful, with the lake never far from view and wide-open landscapes in every direction. With the rest of the day at leisure, you might choose to take a walk along the waterfront or head into town and explore Avenida del Libertador, the main street and social hub. Here you’ll find artisan markets, local wool shops, and a scattering of cafés.

Alternatively, you may prefer to simply unwind at the hotel after the journey. 

We set out from El Calafate after breakfast, crossing the open Patagonian Steppe (or Desert) where the landscape stretches wide and empty, gradually giving way to more rugged, mountainous terrain as we approach the park.

On arrival, we take to the water, boarding a catamaran to cruise across Lake Argentino towards the Perito Moreno Glacier. From close range, the sheer scale becomes clear – towering walls of ice rising above the water, etched with deep crevasses and shifting shades of blue. Every so often, the stillness is broken by the crack of ice calving into the lake (a sound you won’t forget in a hurry).

Back on land, we continue by coach to a network of walkways overlooking the glacier. These paths wind through the landscape at different levels, offering a variety of perspectives – from wide, sweeping views to closer vantage points where you can watch the ice move and fracture.

There’s time here to explore at your own pace, stopping to take in the details, capture photographs or simply stand and watch the glacier at work.

A break for lunch is included during the visit, before we return to the viewpoints for a final look at this extraordinary natural setting.

Later this afternoon, we make our way back to El Calafate, with an evening at leisure. 

For a broader perspective of Patagonia’s glaciers, we travel to Punta Bandera, on the southern shore of Lake Argentino, gateway to the Southern Patagonia Ice Field, where we board a vessel for a full-day cruise. As we head north, the lake begins to fill with drifting icebergs that have broken away from nearby glaciers. Each one is different. Some are wide and pale, others smaller and blue, shaped and reshaped by their slow passage across the water.  

The boat moves carefully through the ice-choked waters, at times slowing as large pieces drift close (it’s a quietly mesmerising process to watch). Along the shoreline, narrow waterfalls cascade down rock faces – meltwater from the glaciers above. 

Our route takes us towards Upsala Glacier – the largest glacier in Los Glaciares National Park – viewed from a distance due to the density of ice in the channel, before continuing to Spegazzini – the tallest glacier in the park. Here, the scale shifts again. Though narrower, this glacier rises dramatically from the lake, its towering front creating one of the most striking scenes of the day.

Much of today’s experience unfolds on board, with time to move freely between indoor lounges and open-air decks, depending on the conditions and your preferred vantage point. Along the way, commentary brings context to what you’re seeing, while the crew may collect small fragments of ice from the water, bringing the scale of it all into sharp focus.

Later, we stop at a refuge where there’s time to enjoy some lunch or take a short walk to a viewpoint overlooking the glacier for a new perspective of this remarkable landscape.

In the afternoon, the boat retraces its course back to Punta Bandera, and from there we return to El Calafate. 

We leave Argentina behind today, travelling from El Calafate over the Chilean border and on to Puerto Natales.

Our journey crosses the Patagonia Steppe, through landscapes of open grassland, distant mountains and seemingly endless skies. Along the way, spot estancias (ranches) grazing sheep, and native wildlife, like guanacos, roaming freely across the plains, while the Andes gradually rise on the horizon – on a clear day, you might even be able to spot the peaks of Torres del Paine on the horizon.

After a stop at the border to complete the formalities, we continue into Chile, arriving in Puerto Natales late afternoon. Set on the edge of Última Esperanza (Last Hope) Sound, this former fishing village is a wonderful introduction to Chilean Patagonia.

The remainder of the day is at leisure to explore Puerto Natales and enjoy dinner at leisure. 

After breakfast this morning, we venture into the Patagonian countryside to visit a traditional Chilean estancia.

While sheep farming is common on both sides of the border, the landscapes feel distinctly different here. Framed by the Andes, Chilean Patagonia is greener in places, with rolling grasslands dotted with grazing flocks. Sheep farming remains central to life in this region, where wool and meat production are still important, and you’ll see firsthand how these vast ranches continue to operate today.  

During our visit, there’s time to explore the estancia, learn about daily life and discover the subtle differences from ranches in Argentina. Later, we’ll sit down to a traditional lunch, often featuring local lamb, a regional speciality that reflects the area’s farming heritage. Served in a communal setting, it’s a chance to slow down and enjoy the warm hospitality for which these ranches are known.

After lunch, there’s time to wander the ground, take in the expansive views or simply enjoy the peace and quiet of the countryside before we return to Puerto Natales later this afternoon. 

An early start this morning sees us travelling north through the Patagonian countryside to Torres del Paine National Park. As we approach the park, the scenery becomes more dramatic, with lakes, rivers and jagged mountain peaks appearing on the horizon.

Once inside, we spend the day exploring its remarkable landscapes at a relaxed pace. Rather than long walks, we’ll stop at a series of viewpoints that reveal the park’s many different faces – from the granite towers of the Paine Massif to the striking blue-green hues of Lake Pehoé and Lake Nordenskjöld. We’ll also pause at Salto Grande, where glacial water tumbles through a narrow channel, often accompanied by the powerful winds for which Patagonia is famous. Keep your camera handy as guanacos are a common sight, while condors, flamingos and Adean foxes can often be spotted, and if we’re lucky, we may even spot a puma or two – this is one of the best regions in America to see them.

As we travel through the park, our guide shares insights into the natural forces that shape this landscape, from ancient glaciers to the ever-changing weather that can transform the view in a matter of moments.

After lunch, we continue exploring the park before visiting nearby Cueva del Milodón (Mylodon Cave). This vast natural cave takes its name from the prehistoric giant ground sloth whose remains were discovered here in the late 19th century. Walking through the cave and its surrounding paths offers a quiet contrast to the grand scale of Torres del Paine.

Later, we return to the hotel for our last night in Puerto Natales.

Today, we wave goodbye to Patagonia, boarding a flight for Santiago.

Upon arrival, we’ll transfer to our hotel downtown, situated in the heart of the historical centre.

With some of the city’s most famous landmarks and parks close by, as well as plenty of eateries, the rest of the day is yours to relax or explore at leisure.  

Today, we explore Santiago, a city of leafy boulevards, historic squares and modern neighbourhoods, all set against the backdrop of the Andes.  

Our morning begins at Cerro Santa Lucía, a small hill at the heart of the city, where Santiago was founded in 1541. Walking through landscaped gardens and terraces, we’ll enjoy views across the city below, with the mountains often visible beyond the rooftops.

From here, we continue to Plaza de Armas, Santiago’s historic centre and a place where the city’s past and present sit side by side comfortably. Surrounded by elegant colonial buildings, including the Metropolitan Cathedral, the square offers a glimpse of daily life as locals, visitors and street performers animate its busy corners.

We then make our way to Plaza de la Constitución and La Moneda Palace, the seat of Chile’s government. The atmosphere here is notably different – more formal, more ceremonial – and our guide will share some of the stories that have shaped Chile’s political history. 

Later, we head to Cerro San Cristóbal, rising above the city within one of South America’s largest urban parks. Reaching the summit by funicular, we’ll be rewarded with sweeping views across Santiago, framed by the mountains and offering a new perspective on the city below. Our return journey is by cable car, floating back across the park with panoramic views of the capital and the mountains beyond.

After a break for lunch, we continue our exploration before returning to the hotel this afternoon. By day’s end, you’ll have discovered not only Santiago’s history and landmarks, but also the setting that makes the city so distinctive. 

We venture out of Santiago, heading west towards Chile’s Pacific coast.

Our first stop is Viña del Mar, often known as Chile’s “Garden City”. Set beside the Pacific, it offers a gentler pace, with palm-lined boulevards, manicured gardens and sweeping ocean views. We’ll spend some time by the waterfront, taking in the coastline and enjoying the fresh sea air before continuing along the coast.

A short drive brings us to neighbouring Valparaíso, and the contrast is immediate. Built across steep hills that tumble towards the harbour, the city feels wonderfully unconventional, with colourful houses stacked improperly above the sea and winding streets revealing new views around every corner.  

We’ll explore both on foot and by vehicle, with the opportunity to ride on one of Valparaíso’s historic funiculars – an enduring part of the city’s character and one of the best ways to navigate its hillside neighbourhoods. From above, sweeping views open across the port, where cranes, cargo ships and the Pacific provide a backdrop to a city that has long marched to the beat of its own drum.

As we wander through the streets, you’ll see why Valparaíso has become synonymous with creativity. Murals cover walls, staircases and hidden corners, transforming much of the city into an open-air gallery. Our guide will also share the story of its rise as one of South America’s most important ports, before the opening of the Panama Canal.

After time to explore and enjoy lunch, we begin our journey back towards Santiago, stopping en route at a local bodega in one of Chile’s renowned wine regions. Here we’ll learn about the area’s winemaking traditions before enjoying a tasting of regional wines – a fitting end to a day, showcasing a key part of Chilean culture.