24 hours in Lyon

In the heart of France, at the confluence of the Rhône to Saône, you’ll find Lyon, a sophisticated blend of history and gastronomy. There’s an air of timeless elegance woven into the cobblestones of its UNESCO-listed Old Town (just right for some unhurried wandering) while its curious traboules, and Michelin-starred bouchons add the je ne sais quoi. Like the perfect host, Lyon invites you to savour its rich tapestry of culture and culinary delights. How could you refuse? 

Start your day with a croissant and a casual wander through Vieux Lyon – the Old Town, a lattice of enticing alleys that lead you to the Gothic and Renaissance splendour of St Jean Cathedral and its astronomical clock. (Not that you’re clock watching of course). If you happen to lose your way en route, it’s a bonus – these labyrinthine streets were made for some unplanned exploration! 

As you traverse the city’s famous traboules you’ll be transported back in time. These passageways are more than shortcuts, they’re historic landmarks that honour the city’s silk-weaving heritage and the earliest example is said to date from the 4th century. Lyon has more than 400, and as you explore the maze of corridors and hidden stairwells, you can only imagine the secrets they could tell – from illicit rendez-vous to French Resistance meetings during World War II. Don’t miss the climb up Fourvière Hill. Once the capital of Roman Gaul, you’ll discover traces of Lyon’s Roman heritage here too, with a scattering of ruins as well as the superb amphitheatre. Whether you walk or take the funicular, the effort is worth it for the Basilica alone (an architectural gem containing intricate mosaics, crypts, and stunning stained glass), but you’ll also be treated to unmatched views of the city plus there’s the opportunity for an aromatic stroll through the rose gardens and tree-lined paths at the Parc des Hauteurs.  

Take a wander into the bohemian La Croix-Rousse district with its historic weavers’ workshops and leafy squares. On the Boulevard de la Croix-Rousse, you’ll find a daily market, packed with wheels of cheese and glossy olives plus more than its fair share of gourmet patisseries, galleries and chic wine bars. Lyon is the self-proclaimed capital of gastronomy - a title no Lyonnais will let you forget. Lunch is sacred here so make time for it. Dive into a bouchon (the quintessential Lyonnaise eatery) where you’ll be elbow-to-elbow with the locals. Here, it’s all about hearty fare: think saucisson brioché (the best sausage roll you’ve ever tasted), Bresse chicken and a generous helping of quenelles, paired with the local Burgundy. Walk off your lunch with a stroll along the banks of the Rhône. Or for a cultural interlude with the likes of Rubens and Rembrandt, make a pit stop at the Musée des Beaux-Arts – you’ll find a range of works on show here from medieval knights on horses to contemporary abstract pieces that’ll have you pondering. 

As dusk sets in, head to the Presqu’Île district for an aperitif and some people-watching in the restaurants and cafés of the lively Place des Terreaux. For dinner, whether it’s a high-end Michelin-starred affair or the chef’s recommendation in a cosy bistro, the meal will likely speak for itself. And as you stroll under the linden trees along the floodlit Place Bellecour, taking in the fine Napoleonic facades, you’ll end the evening feeling both well fed and perhaps a little more Lyonnaise than you did the day before.