Highlights of Montenegro

We'll take a short drive this morning to Budva, Montenegro's most popular coastal town. Budva is a testament to nature's artistry, it follows the gentle curve of the coast, surrounded by lush, tree-covered mountains and the Adriatic Sea. Here, gleaming white fishing boats, elegant sailboats, and luxurious yachts create a vibrant tapestry along the walkways and jetties.

Just behind the harbour sits the old town - which dates all the way back to the 5th century B.C. - encased by 15th-century walls. As the population grew, the town spilt out along the shoreline in both directions but here in the old town, it's like time stood still with locals still living in the medieval stone buildings. In small groups, accompanied by an expert local guide, we'll weave through the narrow streets to discover its history, and hear more about life as a Montenegrin then and today.

Early this afternoon, we'll head inland to the Šipčanik wine cellar which, hidden underneath a vast vineyard at a depth of 30 metres, is one of the most unusual wine cellars in the world.

When it comes to European wines, Montenegro wines are often overlooked, but they shouldn't be, and today we'll prove it with a visit to one of the country's wine producers.

What was once a secret underground military aircraft hangar, operated by the Yugoslav People’s Army, is now a wine cellar with neatly stacked large wooden barrels storing around two million litres of wine- it's hard to believe it until you see it for yourself! After a tour of the winery, we'll enjoy an aperitif before sitting down for a private lunch. Each course is paired with wine produced by the vineyard and presented by their knowledgeable sommelier.

Montenegro was once a mere speck on the map, much smaller than it is today. Officially claimed by the vast Ottoman Empire until the 19th century, it was governed by the Vladika, the prince bishop, and the serdar, who was responsible for defence. They were inherited positions given to the Petrović-Njegoš dynasty, who essentially ruled Montenegro from 1696 to 1916.

This morning, we'll set our sights on the enchanting old royal capital of Montenegro, Cetinje - a place rich in history and cultural significance- which has retained a village-like charm amidst the stunning backdrop of rocky mountains and lush greenery. Recognized as the first official capital after Montenegro gained its independence in 1878, Cetinje continues to be a hub of Montenegro's culture and heritage. Stories echo through its streets, which are home to some of the country's most important sites, like the charming Blue Palace, once the heart of the Montenegrin royal family from 1867 to 1926 and now serving as the President’s residence.

Here we'll enjoy a tour of the russet-red Royal Palace of King Nikola, transformed into a museum where the Crown Jewels of Montenegro gleam with history. Here, we will delve into its exhibitions of weaponry, clothing, art, and everyday items that tell the tale of the Montenegrin identity.

We'll then enjoy free time to wander neatly lined Main Street, admiring the pastel-coloured houses that add a dash of whimsy to this grand narrative. You may choose to see the stoic stone complex of St Peter’s Monastery or visiting the four museums that form the National Museum of Montenegro. 

Following our museum visit, we head to an authentic restaurant in the countryside for a tasting session of traditional Montenegrin favourites: smoked meats and cheeses with delicious priganice – incredibly moreish doughnuts served with honey, which locals traditionally offer to house guests.  

We then return to Budva and have dinner together in the hotel. 

With a long history of invasions, the fortified town of Stari Bar - our destination this morning - lies in overgrown ruins on the shrubby foothills of Mount Rumija.

Once ruled by the Venetians, Serbians and finally Ottomans, it was reclaimed by Montenegro in 1878 after the locals bombed the aqueduct into the town and cut off the water supply. Less than a century later, a powerful earthquake devastated the aqueduct again, leading locals to abandon the town and establish New Bar near the water.

As we ascend the hillside fortress, you can still see the echoes of its former glory. It was an impressive cultural centre, adorned with dedications to deities, grand buildings for the nobility as well as dwellings for the common people. At its zenith, you'll be rewarded with enchanting mountain and countryside views a reminder of the beauty that surrounds us. (For those who prefer a gentler journey, delightful cafes line the cobblestoned ascent.)

We'll continue our journey through the fertile, low-lying countryside and over the border to Albania and our next destination, Shkodër.  Founded in the 4th century by the Illyrians, it's one of the most ancient cities in the Balkans.

As the heart of Roman Catholicism in Albania and a symbol of the Gheg cultural region, Shkodër embodies a unique blend of history, religion, and culture, where churches and mosques stand side-by-side.

We explore this charming city is on foot and by coach. Most attractions conveniently situated around its centre, including the pedestrianised Kole Idromeno. St. Stephen’s Cathedral, which astonishingly served as a sports hall during Albania's Communist era, stands alongside the striking Ebu Bekr mosque, nestled just behind the flower-adorned monument to Mother Teresa, a cherished figure in Albanian hearts.

Standing sentinel over the city is Shkodër's crown jewel, Rozafa Castle. The legend tells of three brothers who built this fortress and in order for it to stand, one of the brothers sacrificed his wife, burying her within the walls. This haunting tale is etched into the remaining walls of the ruins, inviting you to discover its legacy. As you explore the ancient stone walls, staircases, and archways, the wild grass and foliage surrounding the structures evoke the feeling of stumbling upon a long-lost treasure.

Montenegro's Bay of Kotor is often referred to as Europe's most southerly fjord - and it certainly looks like one with towering mountain peaks and rocky coastlines disappearing into its clear waters. Of course, it's not actually a fjord, but rather a ria – a submerged river valley made up of four connected bays - making a butterfly shape which stretches inland from the coast. The shores of this picture-perfect bay, which is a protected UNESCO World Heritage site, are dotted with sleepy fishing villages and charming old towns, and Kotor - its namesake - makes an ideal first stop.

Located at the southern end of the bay, Kotor's UNESCO World Heritage-listed medieval old town is surrounded by five kilometres of city walls - the northern edge even has a moat for good measure. It's impressively well-protected.

Inside is a jumble of narrow cobbled alleyways that seem almost designed for getting lost in. As you explore, you'll notice Roman influences, with Romanesque churches, including Kotor Cathedral and its imposing twin towers, as well as evidence of four centuries of Venetian rule, including a Venetian fortification system – featuring stone-carved ‘Lions of Venice’ – to defend the city from the sea.

After a tour of Kotor Town this morning, you'll have the opportunity to enjoy panoramic views of the beautiful, UNESCO-listed Bay of Kotor. We'll ascend 1300 metres up by cable car to one of Montenegro's most famous mountains, the Lovćen, with views of the bay below.

At the top, we'll be treated to a bird's eye view of the jewel-like bay as we stop for a light lunch and a glass of wine in the restaurant at the top before descending and continuing on to Perast.

Perast is a mini-Venice with Italian-style palazzos and churches - many argue it's the prettiest town in the bay, but we'll let you be the judge of that! Here, traditional stone buildings rise gracefully up the lush hillside, while a stunning array of churches and palaces lines the waterfront, with the striking spire of Saint Nikola’s commanding attention.

Perast is famous for its man-made island, crowned by Our Lady of the Rocks, an attractive, blue-domed church, which we'll visit by boat. According to legend, this island was crafted by local sailors who, after discovering an icon of the Madonna on a rock, celebrated their safe returns by casting stones into the lake, ultimately creating this sacred place to honour her. If you reach behind the altar, you can connect with what’s believed to be the original rock! The church and museum, house treasures generously gifted by locals, including exquisite paintings by Tripo Kokolja, a 17th-century Baroque artist hailing from Perast, and an astonishing tapestry embroidered by Jacinta Kunić-Mijović, who is said to have woven her own hair into the lavish threads!

Today is a free day so what’s it to be?

Consider a stroll along the beach promenade, where you can soak in the splendour of the photogenic bay and the small Venetian fortress built to guard against pirates! Hop aboard a boat and venture to the islets of Katič and Sveta Neđelja and visit the church that, according to legend was built a Greek sailor that was sought refuge from a shipwreck on the island. Indulge in a catch-of-the-day lunch, perfectly paired with a refreshing Nikšićko beer or a glass of exquisite local wine from one of the charming waterfront restaurants.

Perched in a cliff face 900m above the Zeta Valley, the blindingly white Ostrog Monastery is a site of pilgrimage and one of the most important sites for Orthodox Christians in Montenegro. It was here that Sv Vasilije (St Basil), a devoted bishop from Hercegovina, led his monks after the devastation of Tvrdoš Monastery by the Ottomans.

In the Lower Monastery, you can admire vivid frescos in the Holy Trinity Church. And behind the church is a natural spring thought to bless anyone who sips its cool, sweet water.

The Upper Monastery is often called 'Sv Vasilije's miracle' because no one can understand how it was built. Set into a sheer elevation of the Ostroška Greda rock, it's so impossibly positioned that it's difficult to imagine how a team of 17th-century builders could achieve such a feat. In stark contrast to the white exterior, inside is riot of colour with frescoes and mosaics telling tales of religion from the walls, ceilings and columns. You can also choose to join pilgrims as they queue to enter the atmospheric shrine where the saint's fabric-wrapped bones are kept.

From the divine to the delightful, we'll then depart for Lake Skadar, the vast body of water that unites Montenegro and Albania. After time to savour a lakeside lunch in a charming village, we'll split into smaller boats for a relaxing cruise. If you’re lucky you may spot a pod of passing pelicans or one of the other 260 bird species that thrive in this pristine freshwater haven.

With a glass of traditional fiery grappa in hand, we'll end our tour of magnificent Montenegro, surrounded by the breathtaking beauty of Lake Skadar National Park, where tree-covered karst mountains are mirrored in the tranquil glassy waters.